Hermes Scarf Les Amours Romantic and Fun GRAIL Super Rare!

We are thrilled to have taken possession of this extremely rare, beautiful, interesting and valuable scarf, which was designed by ‘the father of Hermes scarves’, Hugo Grygkar, way back in 1947! (Not to be confused with Zoe Pauwel’s much more recent ‘Amours’, and sometimes incorrectly referred to as ‘Par Tout Amour’). You will see it advertised elsewhere at more than double our price!

Considering that this scarf is nearly eighty years old, the quality of silk, the colours and detail are outstanding. There is some feint water staining however, and a small hole caused by the burning of spilt cleaning fluid. But – amazingly – the silk still glows after all this time! The scarf comes complete with the original retailer’s label attached which is extremely rare – Lord & Taylor made in France – an American department store. Condition 6/10.

We have researched the French text which surrounds the scarf, including the captions of its 16 super-cute individual vignettes which feature Cupids getting up to all sorts of mischief! AI informs us that the verses are associated with a famous set of 17th century Flemish engravings, collected in the book ‘Amorum Emblemata’ (Emblems of Love) published in 1608, the primary author and artist behind the work being Vaenius (the Latinised name of Otto van Veen). Van Veen is best known today for being Rubens’ key mentor.

Emblem books were very popular in the Renaissance and Baroque periods, combining a symbolic picture, a title or motto, and a short verse explaining a moral or philsophical lesson. Van Veen drew heavily from classical sources such as Ovid, Virgil and Seneca. For example, the line “To be wise and love is not possible, even for the Gods” is a direct reference to a famous Latin proverb (Amare et sapere vix Deo conceditur).

Here is how we’ve translated the copy of this glorious scarf.  First the verses:

1/ Amour partout:

Love everywhere

The little God of Love the heavens, the earth and the waves

Pierces with his arrows linking them in harmony :

Without Love all is but the chaos of discord

He nourishes and upholds the heavens, and this lowly earth.

2/ Amour aveugle:

Blind love

Cupid carefully with weary steps searching

His path, the wisdom he leaves at his right hand

And on the other side, the reins of reason fall.

To be wise and love is not possible, even for the Gods.

3/ Un plaisir, mille douleurs

One pleasure, a thousand pains

As the butterfly to the flames of a candle

Joyfully loses its life, thus the lover in his madness

Approaching too near loses Life and Feelings

Struck down by the eyes of the cruel Lady

4/ Qui trop embrasse

He who bestows too many kisses,

Who two hares pursues, then stops midway

Will hurt both, thus he who loves

Two ladies at once, one and the other, each in turn

Drives away, all those he pursues.

5/ Plus qu’Atlas

More than Atlas

Atlas carries the sky, and Hercules attempts

to carry, in turn, the home of the Gods :

Love holds alone the earth and the skies

The power of Love surpasses all strength.

6/ Nulle roses sans épines

No rose without thorns

The thorn for he who wishes to pick the rose

Bloodies the hand : from Love the sweet pleasure

Without the bittnerness of pain cannot feel joy

Because in all the suffering the sweetness is enclosed.

7/ Guerre accroist l’amour

War causes love to grow

The true Lover his party attacks,without yielding

To each one the palm of victory is desired

Each one wishes to overcome his companion

One fight ending, another war begins.

8/ Amour trouve moyen

Love finds a way

Here the God of Love, who barely passes on

The waves of the sea, floating on his quiver,

His oar serves as his small bow.

The lover to see his lady undertakes all.

 

And secondly the pictures’ titles:

Amour aveugle

Blind love.

Plus qu’Atlas

Stronger than Atlas

Amour trouve moyen

Love finds a way

Amour sans pitié

Love has no pity

Combat heureux

Happy combat

Pour un plaisir mille douleurs

For one pleasure, a thousand pains

L’occasion fait le larron

An opportunity is a moment of mischief taken

Amour partout

Love everywhere

Deux corps une ame

Two bodies one soul

Qui trop embrasse, peu estraint

He who too much kisses, loves little

Loing des yeux, loing du cœur

Far from the eyes, far from the heart

Nulle rose sans épines

No rose without thorns

Deux cœurs s’unissent

Two hearts combine

Hardy et prompt

Strong and ready

L’absence tue

Love dies with absence

Guerre accroist l’amour

War causes love to grow

Hugo Grygkar, a renowned designer in the world of luxury fashion, is best known for his exquisite work at Hermès. Born in 1907 in Munich, Germany, Grygkar was a gifted artist from a young age. He studied at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris and later joined Hermès in 1939, where he became the first scarf designer for the brand. During his tenure at Hermès, Grygkar designed over 100 iconic scarves, each reflecting his unique sense of style and creative ingenuity. He worked at Hermès until his death in 1959, leaving behind a legacy of unparalleled craftsmanship and artistic brilliance.

Throughout his career, Hugo Grygkar created numerous remarkable designs for Hermès scarves. Some of his most famous designs include:

La guerre et paix

À chacun son cheval

Les timoniers

Trophées de chasse

Ex-libris

Grygkar’s designs often incorporated elements of history, nature, and culture, showcasing his deep knowledge and appreciation for the arts. His scarves were not only visually stunning, but also told stories through their intricate details and vibrant colors. As a result, each Hermès scarf designed by Grygkar became a coveted collectible item, adored by fashion enthusiasts and art collectors alike.

During his time at Hermès, Grygkar revolutionised the way scarves were designed, elevating them from mere accessories to wearable works of art. His designs became synonymous with the Hermès brand, and his contributions to the world of luxury fashion continue to be celebrated today.

In memory of Hugo Grygkar’s unmatched talent and passion for design, Hermès has continued to honour his legacy by maintaining the highest standards of craftsmanship and creativity in their scarves. The timeless elegance and sophistication of Grygkar’s designs continue to inspire and captivate generations of Hermès collectors and enthusiasts around the world.